When the cheese is divine and so is the wine - that's Sapore

Historically, wine has long been a staple of many cultures of diverging backgrounds. Often times more sanitary than the local water supply, it was more practical to sip on this fortified grape juice than risk dysentery or other disease. Plus it came with the added benefit of intoxication, which is pretty handy all things considered. Little thought then was given to what foods would actually complement wine. Luckily, modern plumbing and penicillin have given us the luxury to fiddle with the endless combinations of flavour profiles that such a beautiful marriage of wine and food offers.

Most classic pairings we see nowadays are rooted in the proximity of local ingredients to each other. Looking to Europe as an example, lamb has long been the staple meat of many of the major wine regions (see: Bordeaux, Greece, Rioja etc). This concept of terroir, the belief that the land itself imparts its characteristics onto the produce, means these classic pairings were more of what landed on the table from the day’s harvest or trip to the market. The rationale here being what grows together would probably taste good together.

So the Foodgazers found themselves in Persiaran Ampang on a Thursday night once again, this time for a wine tasting. Sapore is a relative newcomer among the established eateries on the street, specialising in Mediterranean fare with a focus on the Italian. This comes as no surprise as both Federico (who helms the kitchen) and Fabio (front of house) hail from Europe’s big boot. We were lucky enough to attend their inaugural wine night (2nd Thursday of every month), on which the focus was on the long term relationship between Italy’s cheese and wine.

First up, a thick slice of Parmigiano Reggiano (also known as Parmesan) arrives on the table. Hailing from the region of Reggio Emilia, the cheese has oft been called the King of Cheeses. A hard, dry cheese which is aged for a minimum of two years, we were served a slice from the 32 month old specimen on top of a pear slice. As one of the cheeses containing the highest concentration of glutamates (natural MSG), the crumbly texture gives way to a huge umami bomb. Instructed to crumble the cheese with our hands, we were taken aback by the sheer nutty savouriness as it melted slowly in the mouth. The pear slice delicately balanced the palate, cutting through the fat with its gentle acidity and fruitiness.

Paired with a glass of Villa Sandi Prosecco, a sparkling wine from Venice, the fresh fruity dryness of the wine was a great pairing for the cheese. Very floral on the nose with bites of crisp pear and notes of lemon on the finish which cut through the fatty richness of the Parmigiano. Even more interesting was the interplay between the cheese crystals and the wine on the tongue as they popped and fizzled with a bubbly effervescence, leaving the palate clean. Lovely stuff.

And so we move onto softer things with this washed-rind cheese from Val Tallegio. The aroma from this one was intoxicating, with a pungent barnyard earthiness arresting the senses. The unctuous (what a word), gooey texture of the cheese belied a creamy sweetness with just a hint of truffle towards the end. Accompanied by an apple marmalade whose sweetness further lifted the earthy notes. One of the favourites of the night.

The accompaniment this time a summery Tuscan white wine, straw-coloured with a heady floral bouquet. On the palate, bites of lemony apple finishing with a very curious almond twist. A very interesting flavour profile, especially that whiff of almonds at the end which matched the lingering aftertaste of the taleggio like a firm handshake between old friends. Spot on.

Pecorino refers to cheeses made from sheep’s milk, a famed example being Pecorino Romano, the key ingredient in Roman pastas like carbonara or cacio e pepe. For our 3rd course of the night we were served its Tuscan cousin, a firm-textured ewe’s milk cheese. Milder than its more illustrious Roman counterpart, it still has that herbaceous, grassy aroma associated with sheep cheeses with a soft nutty flavour. The grapes here provided a good shot of acid to the proceedings and that rich walnut pesto could easily be eaten with a hearty bowl of pasta. Possibly the most interesting pairing of food ingredients that night.

Ah, Chianti. Made infamous by one Hannibal Lecter regarding its good pairing with liver and fava beans in Silence of the Lambs (excellent film and acting masterclass). A medium-bodied, high acid red wine that opens up with a nose full of red fruit. What follows is a dry flavour profile dominated by plum and dark fruit that lingers on the tongue. A great burst of grape that balances out the rich grassy flavours of the cheese. Easy drinking.

Blue cheeses are like the durian of the cheese world. To most Asians, the almost rotten pungency of the cheese is an acquired taste, dividing opinions like the King of Fruits. Fortunately, unlike durian, I love my blue cheese. This Italian gorgonzola doesn’t quite assault the senses with the same aggression as Roquefort or Stilton, but is still full of that deep, dark funk that consumes the senses. The richness is offset by the tart dried plums and the honey a soothing balm for a now well-exercised tongue. Chief Foodgazer found the honey here overly sweet but I mopped up the whole piece gladly.

A heavyweight cheese calls for a heavyweight wine and thus the final pairing was this strong Sicilian red. Full-bodied, a bit spicy on the nose with very dark fruit and vanilla tones. The palate opens up to more dark fruit, plums, hints of tobacco and vanilla spice. Smooth finish with a slight bitter aftertaste that helps cut through the sweet honey glaze. A good book-end to the pairings.

Complimentary house-made foccacia was served throughout. Light and airy with sundried tomatoes.

A bowl of aglio olio capped off the night, once again on the house. The spaghetti was perfectly al-dente and the aroma of garlic and olive oil was a great send-off. Perhaps a touch light on the salt to balance out all the cheesiness we endured.

All in all, a thoroughly entertaining affair with some quality Italian produce on display. Service was warm, attentive and given an intimate touch with the personal anecdotes from both Chef Federico and Fabio who explained each pairing in detail. Priced at RM108, great value to be had. For those interested in any forthcoming wine events at Sapore, they will be having a Spanish themed event which you can follow here as well as a night of Puglian cuisine. Till next time, the Foodgazers bid you arrivederci.